On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

Massel, S. R. and Gourlay, M. R. (2000) On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs. Coastal Engineering, 39 1: 1-27. doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00052-6

Author Massel, S. R.
Gourlay, M. R.
Title On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 2000-01-01
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00052-6
Volume 39
Issue 1
Start page 1
End page 27
Total pages 28
Place of publication Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Publisher Elsevier Science
Language eng
Subject C1
770400 Coastal and Estuarine Environment
290802 Water and Sanitary Engineering
Abstract An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Keyword Engineering, Civil
Engineering, Ocean
Marine Environment
Coral Reefs
Mathematical Methods
Surface Waves
Q-Index Code C1

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: School of Civil Engineering Publications
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Citation counts: TR Web of Science Citation Count  Cited 65 times in Thomson Reuters Web of Science Article | Citations
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Created: Mon, 20 Aug 2007, 01:12:07 EST