Wave transformation on a coral reef rubble platform

Harris, Daniel L. and Vila-Concejo, Ana (2013) Wave transformation on a coral reef rubble platform. Journal of Coastal Research, 506-510. doi:10.2112/SI65-086.1


Author Harris, Daniel L.
Vila-Concejo, Ana
Title Wave transformation on a coral reef rubble platform
Journal name Journal of Coastal Research   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0749-0208
1551-5036
Publication date 2013-01-01
Year available 2013
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.2112/SI65-086.1
Open Access Status Not yet assessed
Start page 506
End page 510
Total pages 5
Place of publication Coconut Creek, United States
Publisher Coastal Education & Research Foundation
Language eng
Formatted abstract
Wave transformation across coral reef platforms is the primary process affecting changes in coral reef geomorphology. Transformation regulates the amount of wave energy entering reef systems, however there have been relatively few hydrodynamic assessments conducted on coral reefs when compared to siliciclastic environments with the effects of common geomorphic features like rubble platforms on wave transformation never specifically examined. This study focuses on the changes in wave characteristics across a rubble platform in a high energy environment (One Tree Reef, southern Great Barrier Reef). Wave conditions were measured at five locations over two days along a cross-reef transect from the reef rim to lagoon. Most of the wave energy was dissipated during wave breaking with energy attenuation due to bottom friction a secondary process. Wave energy attenuation was between 60–99% of the offshore wave conditions only during high tide would wave propagation across the reef platform be capable of affecting reef geomorphology. The wave spectrum also changed with the shorter period gravity wave energy (3 – 20 s) almost completely expending during transformation while longer period infragravity waves (20 – 300 s) were capable of propagating across the reef platform. Wave heights were depth limited and primarily controlled by water depth which suggests that water depth over the reef platform and subsequently elevation of the reef platform above mean sea level govern the amount of wave energy transferred across into reef systems, with most of the gravity wave energy removed during propagation over coral rubble platforms.
Keyword One Tree Reef
Coral reef hydrodynamics
Coral reef morphodynamics
Great Barrier Reef
One Tree Reef
Geomorphology
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status Non-UQ

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: School of Earth Sciences Publications
 
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