Wave transformation on a coral reef

Gourlay M.R. (1994) Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Engineering, 23 1-2: 17-42. doi:10.1016/0378-3839(94)90013-2

Author Gourlay M.R.
Title Wave transformation on a coral reef
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 1994-01-01
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1016/0378-3839(94)90013-2
Open Access Status Not yet assessed
Volume 23
Issue 1-2
Start page 17
End page 42
Total pages 26
Subject 2212 Ocean Engineering
2305 Environmental Engineering
Abstract Wave transformation of regular waves was measured in a laboratory model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction. Data was obtained for various wave conditions and water levels. A nonlinearity parameter, Fco = g1.25Ho 0.5T2.5/hc 1.75, based upon one proposed by Swart and Loubser (1979), is proposed as a suitable parameter for classifying wave transformation regimes on this reef. In particular, when Fco > 150, waves plunge on the reef edge and the amount of wave energy reaching a shore or structure is small ≤ 16%. When Fin co ≤ 100, waves spill on the reef-top but the greater part of their energy is transmitted over the reef-top. The maximum values of the wave height to water depth ratio on the reef-top were found to be consistent with Nelson's analyses for laboratory and field data which indicate that the maximum stable wave height to depth ratio H/d on a horizontal bottom never exceeds 0.55 for shallow water waves (Fc > 500). The experimental data confirms that the maximum value of H/d decreases when Fc decreases but that it also increases when the bottom slope increases.
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status Unknown

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: Scopus Import - Archived
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Citation counts: TR Web of Science Citation Count  Cited 92 times in Thomson Reuters Web of Science Article | Citations
Scopus Citation Count Cited 104 times in Scopus Article | Citations
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