Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone

Baldock, TE, Holmes, P, Bunker, S and Van Weert, P (1998) Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering, 34 3-4: 173-196. doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00017-9

Author Baldock, TE
Holmes, P
Bunker, S
Van Weert, P
Title Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 1998-09-01
Year available 1998
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00017-9
Open Access Status Not yet assessed
Volume 34
Issue 3-4
Start page 173
End page 196
Total pages 24
Place of publication AMSTERDAM
Publisher Elsevier Sci B.V.
Language eng
Abstract This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic probability density functions, cross-shore variation in wave heights, the fraction of broken waves and velocity moments. The surf zone is found to be unsaturated at incident wave frequencies, with a significant proportion of the incident wave energy remaining at the shoreline in the form of bores. Wave heights in both the outer and inner surf zones are best described by a full Rayleigh distribution [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925-5938], rather than a truncated Rayleigh distribution as used by Battjes and Janssen (1978) [Battjes, J.A, Janssen, J.P., 1978. Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, New York, pp. 569-588]. A new parametric wave transformation model is outlined which provides explicit expressions for the fraction of broken waves and the energy dissipation rate within the surf zone. On steep beaches, the model appears to offer improved predictive capabilities over the original Battjes and Janssen model. Cross-shore variations in the velocity variance and velocity moments are best described using Linear Gaussian wave theory, with less than 20% of the velocity variance in the inner surf zone due to low frequency energy. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Keyword random waves
unsaturated surf zone
breaking waves
Random Breaking Waves
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status Unknown

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: ResearcherID Downloads - Archived
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