Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

Baldock, TE, Huntley, DA, Bird, PAD, O'Hare, T and Bullock, GN (2000) Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering, 39 2-4: 213-242. doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7

Author Baldock, TE
Huntley, DA
Bird, PAD
O'Hare, T
Bullock, GN
Title Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 2000-03-01
Year available 2000
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7
Open Access Status Not yet assessed
Volume 39
Issue 2-4
Start page 213
End page 242
Total pages 30
Place of publication AMSTERDAM
Publisher Elsevier Science Publishers B.V.
Language eng
Abstract This paper presents new experimental data on 2-D surf beat generation by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups. The experimental investigation covers a broad range of wave amplitudes, short wave frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The data include measurements of incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, breakpoint position, shoreline run-up and the cross-shore structure of both the short and long wave motion. Surf beat generation is shown to be in good agreement with theory [Symonds, G., Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., 1982. Two dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492-498]. In particular, surf beat generation is dependent on the normalised surf zone width, which is a measure of the phase relationship between the seaward and shoreward breakpoint forced long waves, and linearly dependent on the short wave amplitude. The cross-shore structure of the long wave motion is also consistent with theory; at maximum and minimum surf beat generation, the mean breakpoint coincides with the nodal and anti-nodal points, respectively, for a free long wave standing at the shoreline. A numerical solution, using measured data as input, additionally shows that the phase relationship between the incident bound long wave and the outgoing breakpoint forced wave is consistent with the time-varying breakpoint mechanism. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Keyword surf beat
wave groups
long waves
bound waves
Infragravity Waves
Long Waves
Swash Oscillations
Irregular Waves
Nearshore Zone
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status Unknown

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: ResearcherID Downloads - Archived
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