Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

Baldock, TE, Huntley, DA, Bird, PAD, O'Hare, T and Bullock, GN (2000) Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering, 39 2-4: 213-242. doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7


Author Baldock, TE
Huntley, DA
Bird, PAD
O'Hare, T
Bullock, GN
Title Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 2000-03-01
Year available 2000
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7
Open Access Status Not yet assessed
Volume 39
Issue 2-4
Start page 213
End page 242
Total pages 30
Place of publication AMSTERDAM
Publisher Elsevier Science Publishers B.V.
Language eng
Abstract This paper presents new experimental data on 2-D surf beat generation by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups. The experimental investigation covers a broad range of wave amplitudes, short wave frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The data include measurements of incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, breakpoint position, shoreline run-up and the cross-shore structure of both the short and long wave motion. Surf beat generation is shown to be in good agreement with theory [Symonds, G., Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., 1982. Two dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492-498]. In particular, surf beat generation is dependent on the normalised surf zone width, which is a measure of the phase relationship between the seaward and shoreward breakpoint forced long waves, and linearly dependent on the short wave amplitude. The cross-shore structure of the long wave motion is also consistent with theory; at maximum and minimum surf beat generation, the mean breakpoint coincides with the nodal and anti-nodal points, respectively, for a free long wave standing at the shoreline. A numerical solution, using measured data as input, additionally shows that the phase relationship between the incident bound long wave and the outgoing breakpoint forced wave is consistent with the time-varying breakpoint mechanism. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Keyword surf beat
wave groups
long waves
breakpoint
bound waves
coastal
Infragravity Waves
Long Waves
Swash Oscillations
Irregular Waves
Nearshore Zone
Run-Up
Dynamics
Transformation
Models
Energy
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status Unknown

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collection: ResearcherID Downloads - Archived
 
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