Bar response to tides under regular waves

Nielsen, Peter and Shimamoto, Tomoko (2015) Bar response to tides under regular waves. Coastal Engineering, 106 1-3. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.09.001

Author Nielsen, Peter
Shimamoto, Tomoko
Title Bar response to tides under regular waves
Journal name Coastal Engineering   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0378-3839
Publication date 2015-12-01
Year available 2015
Sub-type Letter to editor, brief commentary or brief communication
DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.09.001
Open Access Status Not Open Access
Volume 106
Start page 1
End page 3
Total pages 3
Place of publication Amsterdam, Netherlands
Publisher Elsevier
Collection year 2016
Language eng
Formatted abstract
The morphological time scale for the response of outer bar crest level to tidal water-level changes is found to be remarkably short, namely around 15 min for near-prototype wave heights and depths and regular waves. This corresponds to the bar crest level range being 0.77 times the tidal range with a time-lag of only 15 min. Only one near-prototype scale experiment with tide and sufficient time resolution is known to the writers, namely Kraus & Larson (1988) Case 911, which had hmax = 4.4 m, d50 = 0.4 mm, a semidiurnal tide range of ca 1 m and regular waves with H = 1.34 m, T = 7.9 s. However, the fast crest-level response is also seen in profile development studies without tide, i.e., the bar crest level generally gets close to its final value in an hour or so while the overall profile adjustment (e.g. seaward bar migration) continues for tens of hours.
Keyword Beach profiles
Breaker bars
Beach morphology
Morphological time scales
Q-Index Code CX
Q-Index Status Provisional Code
Institutional Status UQ

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Letter to editor, brief commentary or brief communication
Collections: School of Civil Engineering Publications
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