Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

Power, H. E., Hughes, M. G., Aagaard, T. and Baldock, T. E. (2010) Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf. Journal of Geophysical Research. Section C: Oceans, 115 8: C08030-1-C08030-15. doi:10.1029/2009JC005758

Author Power, H. E.
Hughes, M. G.
Aagaard, T.
Baldock, T. E.
Title Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf
Journal name Journal of Geophysical Research. Section C: Oceans   Check publisher's open access policy
ISSN 0148-0227
Publication date 2010-08-27
Year available 2010
Sub-type Article (original research)
DOI 10.1029/2009JC005758
Volume 115
Issue 8
Start page C08030-1
End page C08030-15
Total pages 15
Place of publication Washington D C, United States
Publisher American Geophysical Union
Collection year 2011
Language eng
Subject 0201 Astronomical and Space Sciences
0404 Geophysics
0405 Oceanography
0909 Geomatic Engineering
Formatted abstract
The nearshore evolution of wave height is presented from field observations during unsaturated surf conditions from 10 different beaches characterized by microtidal conditions and predominantly swell-dominated wave climates. Wave evolution is presented in terms of wave height to water depth ratio (γ) for comparison with previous data from saturated surf. Both conventional time-averaged (γrms) and a new wave-by-wave analysis (γw) are performed. Values of γ increase with increasing offshore wave height, indicating unsaturated surf. The observations show a variation in γ values from near constant values in the mid surf zone to rapidly and asymptotically increasing γ values in the inner surf zone. In contrast to previous data from saturated surf, γ shows no dependence on either the absolute beach slope or the relative beach slope β/kh. The skewness of the distributions of γw is consistent with waves that are not depth limited. The inner surf zone wave heights are approximately equally dependent on the water depth and offshore wave height. The previous observations of γ from saturated surf are shown to be consistent with a terminal bore height at the shoreline which is in excellent agreement with a previously derived value for the Miche parameter. In contrast, for the present unsaturated surf conditions, the terminal bore height at the shoreline can be approximated by Hb ≈ 0.12Ho, which is consistent with recent laboratory data sets.
Copyright 2010 by the American Geophysical Union.
Keyword Surf zone
Wave height
Field observations
Breaking waves
Natural beach
Sandy beach
Cross-shore hydrodynamics
Sediment transport
Q-Index Code C1
Q-Index Status Confirmed Code
Institutional Status UQ

Document type: Journal Article
Sub-type: Article (original research)
Collections: School of Civil Engineering Publications
Official 2011 Collection
Version Filter Type
Citation counts: TR Web of Science Citation Count  Cited 11 times in Thomson Reuters Web of Science Article | Citations
Scopus Citation Count Cited 14 times in Scopus Article | Citations
Google Scholar Search Google Scholar
Created: Sun, 19 Sep 2010, 00:04:40 EST